Vol.118_de r geist, de r zeit
de r geist, de r zeit
zeonseongzun
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Interviewed by Oh Jiyoung
Photography offered by de r geist, de r zeit
from Seoul, South Korea.
Please introduce about your brand.
Our words referred to the spirit of the times. The outspoken work reflects the times we have to make. It contains the vitality of the moment.
How did you start up the brand?
I started a café called ‘the laboratory’ and started to make clothes for people working here. I wanted to make this place even more complete because I did all the interior work myself. When I made clothes for my people, I naturally thought that I wanted other people to wear them so that’s how it started.
The mood of the images and photos shown on the website ‘de r geist, de r zeit’ is unique (the fact that the first page is a clock ...) I am curious about the inspiration and the concept.
Like the slogan “How much that is true?” and I ask myself How I live an honest life? I would say Frank life is now and the reality is that Seoul is a city where people live hard and struggle to live as much as I do. How do I identify my values and existence in this reality? Photos and videos are my struggle to identify it. After all, living in Korea is an inspiration.
The way you introduce the costumes as numbers rather than seasons is very new. Is there any special reason?
On my point of view (being selfish) it was easier to organize, easy to memorize, and feeling happy to seeing the result of the progress that I am making was very pleased.
I did not see the reason why giving special concept or story for every season and I think it is important to just keep making the garments rather than giving special concept or following trend for every season.
‘Shirring’ is an impressive way to release clothes. The process of ‘shirring’ is going to be very tricky and delicate, and I’m curious about the work process.
I spent a year at a custom-made clothing factory. I spent most of my time sewing and became friendly with the needle. Since then, I thought I was the most free when working with hand sewing. As you pull, you can make a different feeling as you push and push. Then, if it looks good, detail and design are done. So it seems that there is a lot of shirring in the detail of clothes.
It seems to use a material that is not commonly used in other brands. How is the material determined in de r geist, de r zeit?
I do not think there are any special criteria for selecting materials, but when you look at the material you see, it looks similar so I guess I’m going for my taste. If you look at the fabric at the fabric shop, you can feel the feeling of homogeneity. I like the suit fabrics that have been woven long before the dust has piled up in the corner; In addition, I prefer inexpensive fabrics that are judged as low quality or have some problems from the process of the production. Its not because the material is cheap I think the fabric is super fine I just don’t see any problem in my eyes.
How do you feel about its unfortunate that you can not produce many costumes of the same design because each garment is finished by hand?
I do think it is unfortunate not to be able to produce a lot, but it does not reduce the production because I stick to the manual work. I imagine clothes that I want to make while seeing the clothes that I see in my daily life without having to separate the design sketches. The pattern is then opened several times and then sewed to make the clothes like working out a molding clay. Elements of big and small designs are determined in this process. Also, the reason why production is low is that there is not enough funds to produce commissioned production where the desired quality is guaranteed.
What messages do you want to throw through de ré geist, de rézit?
I want to give a romantic and special value to the things that you feel which could be boring or meaningless. The romance I think is not my imagination; it is my reality. I think everyone has his or her very own romance and I believe if you know your stance then you could easily enjoy and live in your romance.
What do you see, feel, and experience in Seoul?
Living in a city called Seoul is where I experiment. Surrounded by numerous lies and contradictions, my identity is divided several times a day. My beliefs are broken every time when I see those people who live well with their fake words and deeds, and other lies. I try not to lose my beliefs and myself and in the end, I learn how to protect myself.
What are you interested in these days?
It is awkward to say that it is interesting, but the thing that has the most thoughts in my mind these days is the attitude of ‘how can I inform the brand to more people’ and to be a better worker.
What is the plan in 2018?
Work hard and keeping up with the brand, even if brand operations become difficult.